Feta is an ancient cheese. In Homer’s Odyssey, Ulysses found feta in the cave of Polyphemos the Cyclops. Feta is also a much maligned cheese, copied everywhere, made with more care for the bottom line than for flavor. Until recently anyone could call their cheese feta and the country that made the most feta in the world was Germany. Now there are only a few locations that can make the real thing and the island of Lesbos is one of them. Essex feta is made exclusively from the milk of Lesbian breed sheep, whose shepherds retain a millenia old practice of grazing them on the sun-and-sea splashed hills on the hiss around the village of Agra, on the western side of the island.